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 Montana's Missouri River provided an early highway for explorers, trappers, fur traders and other settlers heading into the West in the 1800s. Steamboats made their way up through its lower reaches to Fort Benton. Canoes and other craft came downstream from Three Forks. Towns, and later cities, sprouted up along its banks. Roads ran along the edge of the river. Some towns offered ferry service from one side of the river to the other. Other towns eventually built bridges to connect roads north of the river to those to the south. Here's a look at the Montana towns on, or near, the banks of the Missouri, heading upstream from Culbertson all the way to Three Forks, where the Gallatin, Madison and Jefferson rivers meet to form the start of the big river.  Culbertson Culbertson was named after Alexander Culbertson, an early fur trapper and mountain man. The railroad came in 1887, the post office in 1892. Until the post office was established, the town consisted of two log cabins. Culbertson is one of the oldest towns in eastern Montana, established while Montana was still a territory. Lewis and Clark explored the area in 1805, impressed with the rich, green grassland. Fur traders came in 1807, upsetting the Indians. The Indians continued to cause trouble for the traders until Alexander Culbertson began to deal with them. Major Culbertson was fair, and trading soon began. The cowboys at times got a little rowdy, riding their horses into the saloons, or yelling and shouting. It's said that any damage they did, however, they returned to pay for. Today Culbertson is a pleasant farming town. Brockton Brockton is a few miles south of the Twin Buttes, a famous landmark because of a battle between the Crow and Sioux Indians. It is believed that five Crow Indians stole about 150 horses from a Sioux camp and from Fort Kipp during the time the Fort was occupied by the U.S. Calvary. The Crows, intending to circle the Sioux, crossed the Big Muddy River, following it for 25 miles to Rocky Point, only to run right into the Sioux. All the Crows were massacred and the horses recaptured. The first post office was established in 1904 with Fred Anderson as postmaster. Poplar On May 3, 1805, Lewis and Clark camped near here on the Poplar River about 3.5 miles upstream from where it empties into the Missouri. They named the stream the Porcupine River after porcupine that were found in abundance in the area. The name was later changed to Poplar because of the wide-spread stands of poplar trees on the banks. Poplar is located on the Fort Peck Indian Reservation, and offers plenty of Indian culture. The reservation is home to the Assiniboine and Sioux tribes. The Poplar Museum and Tribal Museum feature tribal history and artifacts. There are many tribal celebrations throughout the year, including the Iron Ring Celebration and 'Wadopanan-Last of the True Powwows.' Wolf Point Lewis and Clark camped near Wolf Point on May 5, 1805. They noted in their journals that Clark killed a large grizzly bear on the banks of the Missouri. The bear was described a being 8 feet 7.5 inches long and weighed between 500 and 600 pounds. One account of how Wolf Point took its name stems from an event which occurred in the trading days. During harsh winters trappers had success trapping and poisoning wolves, but the wolves froze before they could be skinned. The trappers piled the wolves along the banks of the river until spring, when they could be skinned. When the trappers returned for their skins the land had been taken over by Indians. The trappers were forced to leave and the spot became a landmark for steamboat crews, hence the name Wolf Point. During the colorful and romantic age of the grand Missouri River steamboats, Wolf Point was a refueling stop for the big wood burners. The town began as a trading point on the Missouri River. In 1885, the Great Northern Railroad pushed into Montana and the riverboats were gone forever. In 1914, Wolf Point began a growth spurt brought on by the arrival of homesteaders. Congress opened up the Fort Peck Reservation to homesteading by non-Indians. Today, Wolf Point is part of the Fort Peck Indian Reservation. The same blend of tribal and non-tribal residents (about 50%) exists today as did in the early 1900s. The Fort Peck reserve is home to the Dakota-Lokota-Nakota (Sioux) and Dakota (Assiniboine) nations. Today Wolf Point is a trade point for local farmers and ranchers and a center for the Sioux and Assiniboine. Wolf Point is an important area for the state for the storage of grain. Montana's oldest pro-rodeo, the Wild Horse Stampede, is held every July. Even before the term 'rodeo' was coined, this was an event staged by Native Americans for wild riding skills and celebration. Assiniboine Village: The 40-acre site on the bank of the Missouri River explores the traditional Assiniboine culture. Visitors may experience the lifestyle of the Assiniboine including their customs, traditional foods, music and dances, games, and crafts; and may listen to tribal members tell about their history and religion.  Frazer Frazer is situated on the Missouri River, north of the Fort Peck Dam. It was named for a foreman of the Great Northern Railroad. The post office was established in 1907 with James Ivey as postmaster. Today it is a primary grain shipping center. Nashua Nashua is located above the Fort Peck Dam where the Porcupine Creek flows into the Milk River. It is believed that Nashua is the Indian term for 'meeting of two streams.' In the Milk River Valley from Havre to Nashua, it is possible to view steep river bluffs and deep gullies used by the Indians for bison kills, as well as tipi ring sites. Fort Peck Fort Peck was planned and developed by government engineers as the headquarters for construction and operation of the huge Fort Peck Dam in 1933. Fort Peck Dam is one of the largest earth-filled river impediments in the world. Its original purpose was not only to control floods but to create jobs in a depression-saddled economy. At that time, the undertaking was the nation's largest public works project. The building of the dam, at its peak in 1936, provided 10,456 jobs; it was completed in 1940. The dam spans across the Missouri River from bluff to bluff covering 3.5 miles. The construction spawned shanty boom towns that were scattered around the work area; Square Deal, New Deal, Park Grove, Delano Heights and Wheeler. These places disappeared almost as quickly as they grew. Some, including New Deal, are now covered by the lake. All that's left today of any of them is the rebuilt Buckhorn Bar; the original burned down in 1983. The name is derived from an old trading post that was located here. Colonel Campbell K. Peck and Commander E. H. Durfee established a trading post and Indian agency in 1867 a few miles from the present dam site. Fort Peck established a monopoly on fur trade with the Assiniboine and Sioux. Remains of herbivorous and carnivorous dinosaurs, armored fish, and swimming reptiles are some fossils that are preserved at the Fort Peck Theater. Other findings suggest that the area was once subtropical and underwater. This small town offers big recreation and entertainment opportunities. A scenic overlook just east of the dam on Montana Highway 24 offers views of Fort Peck Lake and interpretation of Lewis and Clark's journey through northeast Montana. Virgelle Ring the buzzer and the ferry operator will come over the Missouri to pick up you and your vehicle. The ride is free, but operated at your own risk. The Virgelle Ferry has successfully transported over 30,000 vehicles with a 50-foot-long steel frame with wooden planks and pulled by a power cable. The cable wraps once around the rear hub of a red tractor engine, protected by a little house. The ferry is also attached to a bridle cable, which keeps it from being pulled down river. The Virgelle Ferry started in 1913 and today is a popular point of departure for canoeists floating this scenic stretch of the "Wild and Scenic" Missouri River. It is near the northernmost point of the Missouri . Just downstream is the site where steamboats once loaded coal dug from the nearby hills at Coal Banks landing. The ferry is seasonal operating from mid-April to mid-November, depending on the ice on the Missouri.  Loma Just one mile south of Loma, in June 1805, is where the Lewis and Clark Expedition spent nine days at the Marias River. The "Decision Point" marker on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail (538-7461) is where they determined whether or not the Marias was a main stem of the Missouri. They concluded that it was not. Fort Benton Fort Benton's significance in the early settlement of Montana is immeasurable. No other town played such a prominent role in the opening of the Northwest. Fort Benton, located on the Missouri River, was once a bustling place to unload fur trappers and to load up with furs. As a trading post, military fort and head of steamboat navigation, Fort Benton was an important overland connection. Built in 1846, its primary purpose was as a fur-trading post. By 1859 Fort Benton was connected to Walla Walla, Washington, by the eastern most town navigable on the Columbia River system, the Mullan Road. The Whoop-Up trail led from Fort Benton to Alberta. This trail was used to supply western Canada with illegal "Indian Whiskey." Fort Benton also became a supply depot for Canadian Mounties charged with bringing order to the wild, whiskey-sotted western provinces. Fort Benton is the only trading post that was built in the 19th century to still serve as a town today. It is also known as the gateway to Lewis and Clark's "scenes of visionary enchantment;" the "Wild and Scenic" Upper Missouri River (622-5494). Visit the Museum of the Northern Great Plains, Montana's Agricultural Museum, and the Museum of the Upper Missouri for area history, and walk along the steamboat levee to relive Fort Benton's colorful river port history. St. Paul's Episcopal Church, built in 1880, is one of Montana's oldest masonry buildings. View the keelboat Mandan, the remaining blockhouse from the old fort, and other unique attractions. Ferry crossings at nearby Carter and Virgelle operate March through October. This historic town boasts Montana's Lewis and Clark memorial a heroic-sized statue of the explorers, Sacagawea and her son. The Old Fort Benton Bridge was completed in 1888 and remained open until 1963. The Benton Bridge Company constructed it as a toll bridge - no federal subsidy, county or state money was involved - to hold the city's Judith Basin trade. Choteau County eventually paid a token $9,999 for the structure in 1896. For many years, a great 225-foot turnspan stood ready to swing open for the steamboats that never came; finally in 1908 the O.K. steamed through. Neither survived long afterwards. The big span went down in a flood on June 6, 1908 and the O.K. burned on June 30 of the same year. When the span was built, the Corps of Engineers gave special permission for Fort Benton's bridge to block steamboat navigation further up the Big Muddy. Oddly enough, the cost of its replacement upriver was financed by a special county levy that matched federal funds; again no state money was involved. The Bureau of Land Management Visitor Center is within the Fort Benton Historic District, featuring Lewis and Clark information as well as a slide show. The center is operated by volunteers from June through September and is a major contact point for information about the river and its resources. Brochures, maps, interpretive programs and displays are provided. The walking tour of the four-block levee includes museums, the ruins of the old fort and several other historical buildings. It is also the launch point for the 149-mile "Wild and Scenic" stretch of the Missouri River. Carter Carter is situated near the Missouri River at a site where a ferry operated for many years. The town was named in honor of Montana’s first congressman, U.S. Senator Thomas Carter. The first post office was established in 1905 with Marie Worth as postmaster. Today, this small community still features a ferry that crosses the Missouri River and provides access to the river at a Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks site. It is located off US Highway 87. Black Eagle Black Eagle was named for the Black Eagle Falls on the Missouri, which was named for the many eagles seen by Lewis and Clark in this area. The first post office was established 1917 with August Cor being the postmaster. The town was once called ‘Little Chicago’ because it was an industrial area where many workers from the smelters and refineries lived.  Great Falls Great Falls is known as the 'Electric City' because of its numerous dams and power plants. Montana's third largest city is located on the Missouri River among the five falls that were both a magnificent spectacle and formidable barrier to early river travel. This area held great significance for the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The explorers were forced to spend nearly a month portaging around the falls in June 1805. Much of the Missouri River in this area remains as it was when Lewis and Clark first viewed it over 190 years ago. The 'Great Falls' of the Missouri is now the site of Ryan Dam, but may still be visited. Many visitors to the city ask, "Where are the Great Falls?" There are actually several waterfalls on the Missouri. The dam is operated by PPL, and arrangements can be made to use their clubhouse facility and outdoor picnic area. Crooked Falls and Rainbow Falls remain almost in their original state and can be viewed from River Drive just outside the city. Black Eagle Falls can be seen from River Drive en route to Giant Springs Heritage State Park. The Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center (406-727-8733), opened in 1998, is a grand addition to the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. On the bluffs above the Missouri River, the interpretive center provides an ideal view of terrain similar to what the Corps of Discovery encountered along their portage of the Great Falls of the Missouri River. The center is convenient to the many sights of Great Falls. Exhibits, live programs and a video provide a comprehensive understanding of central Montana's importance to the Corps' mission and the area's place in history along the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. The center, on Giant Springs Road, sits less than a half-mile from Giant Springs, where Clark recorded his discovery of June 18, 1805. Giant Springs Heritage State Park is a lovely park that preserves one of the largest natural, cold water springs in the world. Flow from the springs supports a state trout hatchery and also qualifies as the shortest river in the world, the Roe River. Enjoy a river drive, overlooks, picnic sites and visitor center in this area. This area of waterfalls may be viewed via a eight-mile, paved, nonmotorized pathway known as the River's Edge Trail. It offers a unique experience to walk, jog, roller blade or bike along three of the falls. There is also a paved road with scenic turnouts where the falls can be viewed by car. Great Falls was also the home of the famed cowboy artist Charlie Russell (1864-1926), whose original home and log studio are now part of the C. M. Russell Museum Complex (406-727-8787). Paris Gibson Square Museum of Art was named for the founder of Great Falls and originally built in 1895 as a high school. This beautiful building, constructed from sandstone quarried near Helena, is designated as a National Historic Landmark. The interior features Carolina oak wainscotting, ornate brass door fixtures and hardwood floors. The museum is dedicated to contemporary art in Montana and also houses the Museum Cafe, museum gift shop and a branch of the Montana Wilderness Association. A look at our area's more recent homesteader and cowboy past can be found at the Cascade County Historical Society Museum in the High Plains Heritage Center. There you will also find the Great Falls Geneology Society Library. (406-452-3462). Today, Great Falls is the site of Malmstrom Air Force Base (406-731-2705), the center of our nation's first Minuteman Missile Complex. The museum explains the history of the base, from its role in World War II to the present. Displays at the air park include a "Huey" helicopter, a Stratotanker used for in-flight refueling, a Minuteman intercontinental ballistic missile and many aircraft used as fighters and bombers. The Cowboys' Museum (406-761-9299) takes a look at what Montana was like during the days of those unsung heroes-the cowboys, stockmen and pioneers. The museum is housed in an authentic log cabin with double fireplaces and hitching posts. It is filled with Old West relics-branding irons, rawhide ropes and, ox yokes. More than 500 mementos are on display. Discover the magic, history and beauty of Great Falls while on the Great Falls Historic Trolley or Tour de Great Falls. You'll see and hear about the Lewis & Clark Expedition, Indians of the region, Giant Springs State Park, C. M. Russell Museum Complex, Historic Downtown Great Falls, Three Waterfalls, Paris Gibson Square, Historic Railroad Area, Historic Home District, Churches, Saloons and other historic buildings. (406-771-1100) Great Falls is a marketing center with good air and highway connections. Grand vistas can be found in every direction; Great Falls is surrounded by mountains and buttes on three sides, as well as vast plains to the north. Within minutes you can be on a large wheat farm, in a beautiful winding river gorge, or a picturesque valley. The city, with its midwestern flavor, straddles the Missouri River, which meanders toward natural falls on the northeastern edge of town. Take a short drive and visit the Ulm Pishkun State Park. This historic Buffalo Jump is thought to be the longest in the nation. At the Visitor Center learn why and how the Native Americans drove buffalo over the cliffs. Enjoy an awe-inspiring 360° panoramic view atop the cliffs. (406-866-2217) Major events that draw visitors to Great Falls are the PRCA Montana Circuit Finals Rodeo in January, the C. M. Russell Auction of Original Western Art in March, the Lewis and Clark Festival in June and the State Fair in July. Ulm Ulm takes its name from the local rancher, William Ulm, whose ranch encompassed the present-day site of this community. With the Great Northern extending its rail service through the community. Ulm became a shipping point for the wheat farmers in the area. Visit Ulm Pishkun State Park and Visitor Center to see what is believed to be one of the largest buffalo kill sites in the United States. Though not actually part of the Lewis and Clark route, Lewis described in great detail these buffalo kills, and Ulm Pishkun gives visitors a way to “see” what Lewis described in his journal. There are many public fishing access areas along Frontage Road, and it is a popular place for river floaters to start their floats. Cascade Cascade is a much older town than Great Falls and was named after the cascades or falls in the Missouri River. The post office established in 1887. This small community offers many public fishing access places along the Missouri River. It is also a popular place to start floating trips down the river. Camping, hunting and hiking are nearby as well. Craig Craig is located in southwest Montana on the Missouri River, one of the world's premier trout streams. Located in the area is the Craig State Recreation Area, where is a campground with restrooms and drinking water. Fishing and boating may be enjoyed on the river. The town of Craig was named for local pioneer Warren Craig. In 1886 Craig built a log house, with a stone fireplace. Many times he had to defend his homestead from the Indians (Perrin). The house is located half mile from the Great Northern depot. In 1890 his son, John Craig settled in the area and Mrs. John Craig later served as postmaster. Wolf Creek Wolf Creek’s name was derived from the creek that flows by and the Indian phrase, “Creek - Where - the - Wolf - Jumped - Too (some translations say In).” Now a recreational center, including a general store, service stations, and tourist courts. Travel through majestic canyon walls from Helena to Wolf Creek.  Helena Helena owes its existence to the gold discoveries in Last Chance Gulch by four prospectors in the summer of 1864. The discovery of placer gold, quartz gold and silver, as well as lead, created an overnight boom town. Montana’s third territorial capital and the state capital today became the “Queen City of the Rockies” with the boom brought on by the 1864 gold strike. The first gold strike came in 1852 in Deer Lodge Valley; however, the rush for gold in Montana didn’t start until 1862 with the strike at Bannack. In 1864 a group known as the “Four Georgians” (consisting of John Cowan, D. J. Miller, John Crab, and Reginald, or Robert Stanley), stumbled upon gold in what is now Helena’s main street. The claim was staked and named “Last Chance Gulch.” The “Four Georgians” worked the gulch until 1867, when they went back East, taking large amounts of dust with them. As the gulch began to fill with people, the miners decided they needed to come up with a name for the town. The “Four Georgians” originally named it Crabtown after John Crab, one of the founders. Searching for a name, the miners decided on a town name from Minnesota, pronounced Saint Hel-E-na. To the miners HEL may have been spelled HELL, and from then on was called Helena. Saint was dropped from the name as it was deemed unnecessary. By 1888, an estimated 50 millionaires made Helena their home. Last Chance Gulch produced an estimated $3.6 billion (in today’s dollars) in gold over a 20-year period. In 1875, Helena became the capital of Montana Territory. When Montana became a state, the fight for the location of the state capital pitted ‘Copper King’ Marcus Daly of Anaconda against rival William A. Clark, who supported Helena. Helena won, and in October 1898, ground was broken for the new capitol. Helena is still the seat of Montana’s state government and politics. The downtown area of the capital city is situated in a steep gulch with parts of the city perched on surrounding hillsides. This picturesque setting opens up into a wide valley to the north. On the upper eastside sits Montana’s State Capitol. Helena’s glorious past can be seen in the spectacular 19th-century mansions, historic Last Chance Gulch businesses, and restored pioneer dwellings. The St. Helena Cathedral, an imposing edifice, overlooks the downtown area. Modeled after the cathedral in Cologne, Germany, and a replica of the Votive Church in Vienna, the cathedral is a magnificent addition to its Rocky Mountain setting. Stained glass windows, white marble altars, statues and genuine gold leaf decorate the sanctuary. Outside, majestic twin spires rise 230 feet above the street. Regularly conducted tours of the Original Governor’s Mansion constructed, in 1888 concentrate on the history of the house and its furnishings. It contains 20 rooms and seven fireplaces, all restored to turn-of-the-century elegance and furnished with antiques. The Montana Historical Society, founded in 1865, houses one of the country’s most important collections of Charles M. Russell art in the Mackay Gallery; the Haynes Gallery features the life and work of noted frontier photographer F. Jay Haynes. The brick hostelry of Reeder’s Alley, built in 1882 for gold miners, is now a block of unique shops housed in the old bachelors’ quarters. Gates of the Mountains; as Lewis and Clark traveled up the Missouri River in this area, Meriwether Lewis was struck by the steep canyon walls and noted ‘the Gates of the Mountains’ in his journal. Boat tours are available at the Gates of the Mountains, 16 miles north of Helena off I-15. The Last Chance Tour Train features informative, entertaining tours of the city. The tour begins at the Montana Historical Society. A one-hour train ride provides a spectacular tour of the Capital City, complete with a lesson in Helena’s colorful history. The State Capitol; the building is an excellent example of Greek Renaissance architecture as well as an important part of Montana’s past and future. Inside, murals depict Montana history in a variety of themes. The Archie Bray Foundation was established in 1951 on the site of a brick factory and attracts artist from around the world. Tour the studios and grounds of this unique endeavor in the ceramic arts. The Museum of Gold collection at Norwest Bank displays gold dust to nuggets as big as 244 ounces. This tribute to Montana pioneers is valued at $600,000. Numerous old mines and settlements exist nearby. Just eight miles from the Continental Divide, Helena is surrounded by mountains. The Missouri River flows nearby with several lakes within a short driving distance. Holter and Hauser Lakes, created by two of the three dams on the Missouri River in the Helena area, are perfect for outdoor recreation including fishing, swimming, camping, water-skiing and boating. Canyon Ferry Lake, just 20 minutes east of Helena, is a large reservoir on the Missouri River that offers recreation in all forms. Camping, sailing, boating, swimming and fishing are just the start. You’ll also see ice boaters here in the winter. The Helena area is known for sapphires as well as gold. The Spokane Bar Mine near Hauser Lake is one of half a dozen digging sites. The Elkhorn Wildlife Management Area, managed by the National Forest System, is a 129,000-acre area that is home to many indigenous animals, including big game. Townsend Today, Townsend is filled with recreational opportunities, filled with trees and parks. Lakes and the Missouri River surround the town, and the Big Belt Mountains shelter and protect. Townsend is in great hunting country. Townsend was built in anticipation of the coming of the Northern Pacific Railroad. The town was named after the wife of Charles B. Wright, the president of Northern Pacific; her maiden name was Townsend. A $10,000 hotel was built. Land lots sold for $5 a piece. Visit the Chamber of Commerce for information and maps for self-guided tours through historic mining and scenic areas in the nearby Elkhorn and Big Belt Mountains. Toston Toston was named for one of the original homesteaders and first postmaster, Thomas Toston. Mr. Toston bought his land from John Karns, a Virginian, who was awarded the land after the War of 1812 for ‘meritorious service.’ Mr. Toston built and operated the Toston Ferry on the Missouri River.  Three Forks Three Forks was discovered by Lewis and Clark in 1805, located at the historically significant site where the Madison, Gallatin, and Jefferson rivers converge to form the Missouri River. Lewis and Clark were unable to decide which river was the Missouri, so they named the three rivers. The first fork was named for Albert Gallatin, Secretary of the Treasury; the second for James Madison, Secretary of State, and the third for Thomas Jefferson, President of the United States. Before Lewis and Clark ventured into the area it was used frequently for travel and a site of battles between the Crow and the Blackfeet. It soon became a trading post with the whites and the Crow. One of the main attractions in this area is the Headwaters Heritage Museum, constructed in 1910, originally housed one of the first banks in Three Forks. In 1925, it was damaged by an earthquake and later was restored to its original design. Displays include replicas of a turn-of-the-century village and thousands of historical artifacts, such as a small anvil salvaged from the ruins of an 1810 Missouri Fur Company trading post. Visit Montana’s first state park, Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, located 17 miles west of Three Forks on Montana Highway 2. It features one of the most highly decorated limestone caverns in the Northwest. Filled with an endless variety of beautiful, colored formations, these spectacular caverns are electrically lighted and safe to visit. Guided tours take about two hours, including time for a leisurely walk along the paved trail leading from the visitor center to the entrance. The entrance trail is 3/4 mile long with a 300-foot rise. Visitors are also required to walk another 3/4 mile inside the caverns, including 500 stairs down and 100 stairs up, plus 1/2 mile back to the visitor center. The Paradise Tour provides an easier option for senior citizens and those with limited time. The Madison Buffalo Jump is located off I-90 near Three Forks. This buffalo jump vividly demonstrates a hunting technique used in Montana 2,000 years ago. Interpretive displays explain how bison were stampeded over the cliffs. Missouri Headwaters State Park has historical exhibits, interpretive signs, scenic viewpoints, picnic areas and hiking trails. Agriculture and tourism are the main industries in this area. 
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